Surfing Conditions –
Learning about Surf Conditions is very important for your surfing journey.
- Our West Coast ground swell is generated by large storms out to sea, it then travels up the west coast until it hits Indonesia.
- Shallow water causes swell to rise steeply and then break as waves.
- No two waves are ever the same.
- When you start your surfing journey stick to the white water.
- Avoid plunging waves.
- When you are more confident start catch waves on the shoulder of the wave.
- As your skills progress start to take off at the peak of the wave.
- Waves are usually measured in feet.
- A wave is measured from its peak height (crest) to the ocean water level (through).
- Some surfers measure waves from the back of the wave.
Surf Conditions –
Types of Waves:
- Spilling waves break softly and create a crumbling effect, caused by a gradual rise in the sea floor. Perfect for a beginner.
- Dumping waves break powerfully and create a tube (tunnel) effect, caused by a sharp rise in the sea floor. Experienced surfers only.
- A right-hander breaks and peels to the right when looking from behind the wave.
- A left-hander breaks and peels to the left when looking from behind the wave.
- Set waves – a group or ‘pulse’ of 4 to 6 larger waves.
- White water – the white foam of a broken wave.
- Close-out – when a wave breaks without peeling left or right.
- Beach break – waves breaking over a sand floor. Sand consistently shifts, creating ‘sand banks’ which determine a wave’s quality. Ideal for beginners.
- Reef break – waves breaking over a rock or coral floor. Reef is permanent and creates consistently shaped waves. Experienced surfers only.
- Point break – waves breaking around a point of land.
- Offshore – wind blowing from the shore to the ocean, which holds up the waves face, creating clean waves, therefor ideal for surfing.
- Onshore – wind blowing from the ocean to the shore, which causes the wave’s face to crumble, creating rough waves. Not ideal surf conditions for surfing.
- Tides are the rise and fall of the ocean water level.
- Low tide is when the water level falls to its lowest point.
- High tide is when the water level rises to its highest point.
- Tides affect the shape and quality of waves.
- A rip current is a body of water that pulls out towards the ocean, always avoid these surf conditions.
- In a rip the water may appear murky and choppy.
- Waves generally break either side of a rip.
- If caught in a rip, follow the points below:
- Do not Panic and do not paddle against the rip.
- Paddle parallel to the beach until free from the rip.
- Stay with your surfboard at all times.
- If you’re in trouble, attract attention by waving to shore.
- An uncrowded beach break, free of any rocks.
- Waves around 1-2ft with light offshore wind.
- Spilling left or right-hand waves.
- No rips or lateral currents.
- Surf conditions in the mornings are often best, as winds are lighter (afternoon sea breezes make waves choppy)